Nerf Rayven

[thebestcookie]

I was looking more at accuracy. I'm running 10.5 volts, so range isn't a problem.
Do you think that a 3/4" barrel will help? Or would that be too wide to help accuracy?

[SpookyLucaZ]

I was looking more at accuracy. I'm running 10.5 volts, so range isn't a problem.
Do you think that a 3/4" barrel will help? Or would that be too wide to help accuracy?

You mean front barrel? Why not just use a recons and save on the glue?
I ran a game without any extra barreling on 12.3 V and they were horrible in terms of reliable accuracy. After a bit of testing, I can now hit a zombie almost everytime at 45' using the recons front barreling. The addition of a grip or light is always a plus as well...

[thebestcookie]

I'm wanting to use PVC because I have a Recon attached to it by the slide, so when I run out of ammo in my Rayven I can just push forward and pull back on the Recon to cock it.
And the Recon works as a VFG, so that's pretty nice, though a bit unnecessary because the Rayven's bull pup.

[Vigilante]

You mean front barrel? Why not just use a recons and save on the glue?
I ran a game without any extra barreling on 12.3 V and they were horrible in terms of reliable accuracy. After a bit of testing, I can now hit a zombie almost everytime at 45' using the recons front barreling. The addition of a grip or light is always a plus as well...

Question, I was using the Recon front barrel a bit for the Rayven as well, and also got better grouping and better dart stability. But you haven't experienced any dart "jams"? When Nerfing with my friends a noticeable amount of times the dart would fire, seem to hit the front barrel, and get stuck, even with the 12.6v running the Rayven. I would have to point it down to let the dart fall out, and then keep firing.

[RandomShadow09]

Question, I was using the Recon front barrel a bit for the Rayven as well, and also got better grouping and better dart stability. But you haven't experienced any dart "jams"? When Nerfing with my friends a noticeable amount of times the dart would fire, seem to hit the front barrel, and get stuck, even with the 12.6v running the Rayven. I would have to point it down to let the dart fall out, and then keep firing.

Honestly that's not even a Recon barrel problem, that'll happen just inside the Rayven's barrel with nothing else attached.  Just takes the right dart to get flung into the side of the barrel and die there.

If you have access to one (most people seem not to), the Spectre barrel is fantastic on the Rayven.  The only darts that hit it are the ones that were going well wide, so it helps "accuracy", but at the same time being a wider barrel fewer darts actually come into contact with it and that helps keep the dart fps up which is important to getting hits in HvZ.

[catbarf]

It's not the dart either. It's a tolerance error causing the flywheels to be offset slightly from the magazine, and it's really easy to fix with a spare screw, superglue, and about five minutes.

[teek42]

As far as the issue with darts making contact with the barrel, a 12vish rayven should be hitting 60' easy. A 5' reduction from darts touching the guide barrel is pretty much negligable. Ive found smaller guide barrels (retaliator-recon) to help accuracy more than a larger diameter barrel (spectre-longstrike). Even with a good guide barrel, if you're using stock orange streamlines, you're probably not going to hit much outside 35-40'. I pretty much am forced to run elite or hotglue filled w-codes to be comfortable with my accuracy.

[TremoughsFate]

I know this is late to the party, and I apologise for it, but I feel it's a useful tidbit.

You CAN swop the stockade's motors with the rayven's, but if you do you are in for a whole world of hurt.
To start off with, they do not fit perfectly in a nice and comfortable way. You are going to be hacking apart the mountings for the rayven and the stockade to get any sort of cohesion, then you will spend a lot of time trying to work out the alignment!

The way I managed it (and dammit it was messy, slightly dangerous, but the best an under-equipped student could manage) is this:
1) Take apart your blasters.
2) Extract the motor housing from the stockade (you want the part the flywheels and motors are attached to).
3) Cut off all of the struts at the edges until you have only the ovular-ish housing. Sanding down the edges would probably help.
4) Slice off the equivalent housing from the rayven, be careful not to damage it as these struts will be needed to remount the motors. The entire front edge needs to be taken off cleanly as it matches the struts and barrel. Do not touch the other piece of the rayven's motor housing.
5) Line up the front edge of the rayven's housing with the barrel and the stockade's runners, so that the dart will pass through smoothly (preferably using a dart to make sure).
6) Glue it in place, make sure that it will all fit together and darts will run through smoothly.
7) Glue on the additional strut pieces to hold it together.
8 ) Gently sand or cut small pieces off the stockade's top housing until it fits the rayven's shell.
9) Et voila. One Rayven with Stockade motors.

Now I know that this is probably the least helpful guide you have seen, but as I have only just got it back together and working (it's been almost a week) I don't fancy taking it apart again for pictures, especially since I'm painting it now.

I would not recommend anyone ever does this as it's been a bit of an ordeal and there are easier things you can do.
It runs faster, quieter and hits a little further, so I can't wait to put the trustfires in!

[TremoughsFate]

Just adding to the above, I've finally finished my rayven!
It's currently in the process of being painted in my signature colours: black, red and silver.


I finally managed to get the stockade motors working perfectly in the rayven's motor housing, it runs with a lovely little purr.
Also I managed to obtain some K&S Engineering brass tubing for £3 (~$5) to experiment with brass barreling the rayven, it works perfectly. I don't think it'll ever jam again!