September 18, 2014, 11:44:09 am *
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 on: Today at 12:56:35 am 
Started by Jarvii - Last post by torukmakto4
That looks like a low current pack. Generally that seller is not a super great place. This is what you really want:

Cost is a little steep but that is part of the problem with NiMH. Similarly, LiFePO4 is not very popular and costs continue to be high. The cost of both the pack and the support gear could be cut significantly if you used LiPo.

IMR 14500 continue to be an option (especially if you mod the cell holder for lower resistance) if you want to share batteries with a Stryfe or the like.

 on: September 17, 2014, 08:37:04 pm 
Started by Jarvii - Last post by Jarvii
Alright so I'm looking at ordering this spring
Two of these battery packs
Will that work without burning out the motor or having a stupidly slow rate of fire?

 on: September 17, 2014, 08:15:23 pm 
Started by Jarvii - Last post by Herbert West
I see no problems with your choice of batteries. If finding an appropriate charger for 10-cell NiMH is difficult, keep in mind that you could get a pair of 5-cell packs and charge them separately.

Connect the batteries directly the wiring in the blaster, not the tray. The usual way to do this is to put the batteries into the hole where the tray usually goes, with leads long enough that you can take then out conveniently and velcro to prevent rattling, and to turn the back part of the tray into a cover. Use good RC connectors. APPs or Deans would serve you well.

If you really want to retain the use of the tray, I recommend using a second set of connectors to replace the contacts between the tray and the rest of the blaster. Big connectors such as APPs should work well. I've never seen this done, but there is no reason why it shouldn't work.

 on: September 17, 2014, 06:29:05 pm 
Started by Jarvii - Last post by Jarvii
Alright just to double check I want a 10 cell NiMH. 1000mAh+ battery pack. And any tips on putting them in the battery tray?

 on: September 17, 2014, 05:14:38 pm 
Started by Jarvii - Last post by Herbert West
Packs are the way to go if you want performance, not cells in holders. Also, beware of the parasitic resistance caused by the spring contacts between the tray and the main body of the blaster. You'll want to use proper RC connectors.

If you know nothing of batteries, you might be better off using NiMH than anything lithium-based, as NiMH is an easier chemistry to work with overall - in particular, cell balancing isn't an issue. The main disadvantage of NiMH is that you will have more bulk and weight per discharge and capacity - but if you plan to put these batteries in a Stampede's (huge) battery box, the bulk won't be a problem.

With that being said, AA cells with resizers and blanks do make for an easier install - you could do this "mod" without opening the shell or doing any soldering! Just be vigilant about battery temperatures (incendiary failures ahoy!) and be aware that you are cutting corners which will hinder your performance if you do decide to use them.

 on: September 17, 2014, 04:44:02 pm 
Started by Jarvii - Last post by torukmakto4
3S lipo, 4S LiFePO4, 10 cell NiMH. 1000mAh+. Avoid 4S lipo/12 cell NiMH, that is for high ROF (difficult to troubleshoot) builds. (LiPo, LiFePO4, chargers, XT60 connectors) (NiMH).

Do not buy *fires. This is 2014 and we know better. Pack setups can be nearly as cheap. If you must buy 14500, use IMR 14500 cells.

Seeing as a Stampede does not already have a 14500 cell holder, you have to add one, thus using 14500 cells is ZERO labor savings over the connector and pack. You don't want to use a high-resistance and unreliable holder and tiny weak cells for the hell of it.

 on: September 17, 2014, 02:01:48 pm 
Started by Jarvii - Last post by bbdude101
I have modded two stampedes to run off of 4 trustfires (I know, booo hiss lol). This is really the easiest thing to do. I used the 4 14500 Trustfires (about the size of a AA), 2 dummy AA batteries, and 6 D to AA converters and threw it all in the bettery try.

Using trustfires is easy, but not the best option as far as batteries go.

You could also use a lipo, but that requires a little more work to make the most out of. I havent done a lipo stampede yet (on my to-do list atm). I believe you would want to rewire with thicker guage to make use of Lipo's higher current, use a "pro" RC plug (like a Deans T Plug) and probably run with a large 14.4v Lipo.

 on: September 16, 2014, 10:33:51 pm 
Started by Jarvii - Last post by Jarvii
So I finally got around to drilling out the stripped screws on my stampede, after only two years.... The only problem I've run into is that I want to put a better spring in, but to do that I'd need to up the voltage and I know absolutely nothing about batteries. Any help out there?

 on: September 16, 2014, 10:22:03 pm 
Started by Pointman9 - Last post by Hardware
Thank you. Um, no, the square is on the right-hand side of the blaster. Any other simple fixes?

 on: September 16, 2014, 05:19:57 pm 
Started by Pointman9 - Last post by torukmakto4
PT = plunger tube i.e. cylinder.

There is a square protrusion on one side. It has to face the correct direction else you will get symptoms described.

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