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 11 
 on: March 14, 2015, 05:01:23 PM 
Started by CS- Tiff - Last post by CS- Tiff
Idea: You could even keep the front end of the ray receiver attached to the grip piece, stick your ray cage in there in "quadwheel" fashion, and then put that assembly on a bullpupped RS with a shortened barrel shroud area.

That's like the best idea i've heard in a long time.

 12 
 on: March 14, 2015, 03:43:39 PM 
Started by CS- Tiff - Last post by torukmakto4
Thing is, I really REALLY like the thumbguard on the rayven. Would making a vulture work without the rayven handle? I also wanted to use the rayven in this build so I could use the flywheel cage. I think the mag dump video's rpm is perfect. I really don't need it to be bullpup but I would very much like it. Right now on my shopping list for the project:

3s 2200 mah 40-50c Lipo, 2s 1600 mah 30-40c lipo, 1 rapidstrike, 1 flywheel cage, 2 more 180's, and 2 mini microswitches (For the trigger and firing mech switches).

You can build a Vulture any way you want, it's just plastics fab. You could also keep the Rayven thumbhole piece, I chose not to because of the effects on my wrist but you could easily build it in. You can make a Vulture as rayvenish as you want, I just think it is a way better use of the donor guns that will be used/scrapped in this project to use the RS for the shooty stuff itself.

Idea: You could even keep the front end of the ray receiver attached to the grip piece, stick your ray cage in there in "quadwheel" fashion, and then put that assembly on a bullpupped RS with a shortened barrel shroud area.

 13 
 on: March 14, 2015, 09:37:33 AM 
Started by CS- Tiff - Last post by CS- Tiff
And why not? You are going to take a Rayven and do fabrication to mount a pusher box and cycle control hardware which flat has nowhere to go, but you consider a RS unable to accomodate an afterburner cage?

A grip frame, but all the problems got cut off and went into the scrap bin. Rayvens are known for alignment issues and general poor fit, And bad ergonomic juju with that thumbhole+battery box deal. Seeing as you want to build a burner, you obviously want performance, so I wouldn't risk the dreadful feeling of getting the build almost finished and finding you have 30 inexplicably missing FPS, which I have seen from Rayvens on multiple occasions because of some bad interaction between the magwell, cage and inner barrel. The RS receiver has WAY better cage mounts and all that. Much less trouble.

There isn't any reason for the trustfires or any other dedicated battery for the pusher. You really should run it on a/the main battery.

A RS motor will never be able to stop at 600, let alone 720. You would have to run no cycle control and then you have an unpredictable, uncontrollable, jammy rig. Plus you would need carbons to run 3S+ on that motor. Definitely run the 180 if you want 600-720.

Now we're getting ideas. This is a good plan, actually that was one of my concerns, not enough speed on stage 2 to make a major difference in velocity at the muzzle. The 3S would solve that and 2 switches would solve that problem too.

The pusher would go good on the 2S, eliminating the diode drop requirement or reducing it to one diode for 600RPM. You need only use the 3S for the pusher if you want it faster than my vulture mag dump video shows, and again, then you are getting to the point of instability.

Thing is, I really REALLY like the thumbguard on the rayven. Would making a vulture work without the rayven handle? I also wanted to use the rayven in this build so I could use the flywheel cage. I think the mag dump video's rpm is perfect. I really don't need it to be bullpup but I would very much like it. Right now on my shopping list for the project:

3s 2200 mah 40-50c Lipo, 2s 1600 mah 30-40c lipo, 1 rapidstrike, 1 flywheel cage, 2 more 180's, and 2 mini microswitches (For the trigger and firing mech switches).

 14 
 on: March 13, 2015, 11:56:11 PM 
Started by CS- Tiff - Last post by torukmakto4
The reason I wanted to do it with a Rayven shell is because it would be able to have a quad motor setup as the rs would not.

And why not? You are going to take a Rayven and do fabrication to mount a pusher box and cycle control hardware which flat has nowhere to go, but you consider a RS unable to accomodate an afterburner cage?

I see you also used part of a
Rayven in your build am I not right?

A grip frame, but all the problems got cut off and went into the scrap bin. Rayvens are known for alignment issues and general poor fit, And bad ergonomic juju with that thumbhole+battery box deal. Seeing as you want to build a burner, you obviously want performance, so I wouldn't risk the dreadful feeling of getting the build almost finished and finding you have 30 inexplicably missing FPS, which I have seen from Rayvens on multiple occasions because of some bad interaction between the magwell, cage and inner barrel. The RS receiver has WAY better cage mounts and all that. Much less trouble.

I want to reach about 720 ish rpm. Thing is, I want this to be like a REALLY overpowered primary. If not 720 rpm, I would say, 600. I want to keep the stock pusher and just run 2 or 3 trustfires in it. I have an extra blade which I could use for the pusher but then my trustfires just won't supply the current.

There isn't any reason for the trustfires or any other dedicated battery for the pusher. You really should run it on a/the main battery.

A RS motor will never be able to stop at 600, let alone 720. You would have to run no cycle control and then you have an unpredictable, uncontrollable, jammy rig. Plus you would need carbons to run 3S+ on that motor. Definitely run the 180 if you want 600-720.

I have 2 more 16 amp microswitches that i could use for a dual throw and then have the afterburner 2 blades run on my 40-50c 2200mah 3s pack and the startup blades run on a 2s 1800mah pack. The pusher could probably use a diode drop and a 3s from the front flywheels.

Now we're getting ideas. This is a good plan, actually that was one of my concerns, not enough speed on stage 2 to make a major difference in velocity at the muzzle. The 3S would solve that and 2 switches would solve that problem too.

The pusher would go good on the 2S, eliminating the diode drop requirement or reducing it to one diode for 600RPM. You need only use the 3S for the pusher if you want it faster than my vulture mag dump video shows, and again, then you are getting to the point of instability.

 15 
 on: March 13, 2015, 10:19:37 PM 
Started by CS- Tiff - Last post by CS- Tiff
I would go with a bigger pack. I never consider any lipo (regardless of label) to be rated for more than 25C. With 2 sets of FKs on 2S you have 92 stall amps (on that note, watch out for switch reliability and consider a relay) and to keep exactly at the twice continuous rule of thumb for burst current, you need an 1840mAh pack. You could get away with it but I would want some safety margin.

Other feedback on the build, I would avoid the B battery for the pusher, there is zero purpose to that. I can't even think of any good motor setup for the pusher that would use a 4S battery and work decently (if a RS motor you are going to blow the hell out of it). What is your ROF target? Also, I posted something called a Vulture which is a bullpup RS conversion and I would STRONGLY SUGGEST building one and not using the Rayven receiver at all. The Rapidstrike can be made to have almost identical ergonomics with none of the problems and the pusher box already installed without any hacking.
Your vulture build was actually what inspired me to do this. The reason I wanted to do it with a Rayven shell is because it would be able to have a quad motor setup as the rs would not. I see you also used part of a
Rayven in your build am I not right? I want to reach about 720 ish rpm. Thing is, I want this to be like a REALLY overpowered primary. If not 720 rpm, I would say, 600. I want to keep the stock pusher and just run 2 or 3 trustfires in it. I have an extra blade which I could use for the pusher but then my trustfires just won't supply the current. I have 2 more 16 amp microswitches that i could use for a dual throw and then have the afterburner 2 blades run on my 40-50c 2200mah 3s pack and the startup blades run on a 2s 1800mah pack. The pusher could probably use a diode drop and a 3s from the front flywheels.
/

 16 
 on: March 13, 2015, 05:25:53 PM 
Started by CS- Tiff - Last post by torukmakto4
I would go with a bigger pack. I never consider any lipo (regardless of label) to be rated for more than 25C. With 2 sets of FKs on 2S you have 92 stall amps (on that note, watch out for switch reliability and consider a relay) and to keep exactly at the twice continuous rule of thumb for burst current, you need an 1840mAh pack. You could get away with it but I would want some safety margin.

Other feedback on the build, I would avoid the B battery for the pusher, there is zero purpose to that. I can't even think of any good motor setup for the pusher that would use a 4S battery and work decently (if a RS motor you are going to blow the hell out of it). What is your ROF target? Also, I posted something called a Vulture which is a bullpup RS conversion and I would STRONGLY SUGGEST building one and not using the Rayven receiver at all. The Rapidstrike can be made to have almost identical ergonomics with none of the problems and the pusher box already installed without any hacking.

 17 
 on: March 13, 2015, 04:35:45 PM 
Started by CS- Tiff - Last post by CS- Tiff
I'm looking into getting out of the trustfire train and into lipos. I'm thinking about making a quad motor rayven with 4 blades. I will be running it on a 2s.

My question is, will a 1800mah 2s 30-40c Lipo be enough to power the blades?

I will still be utilizing the battery tray for 4 trustfires for the pusher.

 18 
 on: March 12, 2015, 01:37:13 AM 
Started by Kato - Last post by 4533josh
All credit for this special goes to a mod team we had last year, but the Weeper: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76plM8Z9tRY

 19 
 on: March 12, 2015, 01:07:20 AM 
Started by agentjonnyb - Last post by agentjonnyb
Many thanks, Toruk! I'll let you know how it goes when I get my batch, ordered 400 yellows, really hope they work well!!

 20 
 on: March 11, 2015, 09:26:49 PM 
Started by agentjonnyb - Last post by torukmakto4
Thanks for the speedy, and informative reply! So would you say the yellow is just as good, or *almost* as good as the blue? I just want to verify what exactly you really meant. Hopefully they manage to improve the others this year, don't get why they don't just simply use the same exact molding pieces for the other colors as they do the blue, so frustrating.

I saw and shot a few rounds of the yellow. I was not able to combat test these, they were someone else's darts, but I could tell the foam would hold up OK. I would say it was as good as the blue, not for absolute certain, but certain enough that I would risk running it.

The foams are likely truckload or larger sized lots from the foam manufacturer ordered by the dart manufacturer, and it is possible the variation between colors is just variation between lots. Also, the colors involve a change to the compound itself and this could have an effect on the resulting product. The extrusion die is probably the same.

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