October 09, 2015, 01:35:57 PM *
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 on: September 10, 2015, 03:19:21 AM 
Started by Amightywind - Last post by Amightywind
Hi team, random electrical question...

Heading towards a gentle power-up rebuild of my Nerkita Rayven. Currently just stock motors with rewire and integrated Makita 9.6v 1.6Ah NiCad cordless-drill battery using the original drill's connectors. Looking at better wiring, connectors and switch-gear and maybe Barricade motors. Very keen to keep the cordless-drill look (hilarious), feel (great balance) and function (slapping in a new battery just feels right!), so deciding whether to gut the inside of an original Makita battery-pack and install a Lipo+voltage-monitor there or just keep the whole thing pretty much as-is for fun and get a new aftermarket "orignal" NiCad battery for a bit more "oomph", but then do a wholly separate brand-new build for a better-performing Rayven (bit of a bullpup fan...). The major draw-back for the NiCad's is the weight - almost 450gm!

So, 1st question then before I go all out and join the Lipo Dark Side is how much "C" (Amp discharge) can you expect out of a new or professionally repacked 9.6v NiCad of this sort? The only figure I've come up with in 3 months of searching has been a vague "10C" for "industrial" NiCad's in general, and no idea of peak discharge ability...

It currently rev's up and shoots reasonably (in fact, painfully...) well, but I've no real reference to test it against so far. I've got a few spare tired battery cases which I know will fit a small Lipo, but given I'll have to bust and rebuild a one to do it I'd want to be sure whatever I can pack in there instead is going to be worth it.

Remember, this is more for fun and not really to lay waste to the horde...

[edit] ... yet...



[Edit] couple more more pix added

 on: September 05, 2015, 11:38:25 PM 
Started by Agiel882 - Last post by torukmakto4
It sounds like you are trying to use the stock switch/button setup in which the trigger and the rev button happen to interfere (such that pulling the trigger will rev) as a 2 stage trigger, in which pulling the trigger should start the flywheels and then feed a round into them.

The problem is that the timing of the stock setup (which is not meant for any such purpose)  is not even close to being what is required to do that. The switch needs to close with as little trigger travel as possible at the beginning of the pull before the pusher begins stripping a round from the mag.

Also, such a configuration is not useful with stock motors and certainly not the stock battery setup and wiring. You need to have a high-end power system to get the response necessary to not have a liability of jamming or inconsistent velocity.

I suggest that you simply learn to use the rev button properly. This is a case where manual is better than automatic. Hardly any high level player runs a 2 stage trigger. It's all rev buttons across the board.

 on: September 03, 2015, 02:21:52 AM 
Started by Agiel882 - Last post by Agiel882
Hey all!
So I've just gotten into modding a stryfe, and I've taken out the trigger lock so that the trigger revs as well as firing, but despite all the other locks working fine, and the circuit revving up fine with just the pull of a trigger, the moment a clip with ammo is loaded into the gun the motors shut down. An empty clip lets the gun still rev, and if the gun is allowed to rev before the clip is added, and the motors are still spinning, the gun can fire as I would like it to, with a single trigger. This leads me to assume that the feeder arm is pushing the bullet into the flywheels before they have time to start spinning, stopping them from being able to. Is there a way around this?

 on: August 23, 2015, 02:54:34 PM 
Started by FrostyFangZX - Last post by Justplanefun2
Personally I would ditch the Triad and half the socks.  I can't see myself using all of that.  Be sure your darts are pretty new and loaded nicely in the mags because otherwise your Slingfire may jam.  Keep a sock in one hand if you can in case this happens.

Like Zombona said, practice running around with your loadout.  If you can get a few friends to chase you around an area as zombies that's really useful.  If something slows you down, wiggles, or falls off consider attaching it in a different way or getting rid of it.  The less you can carry, the faster and less conspicuous you will be.  Happy hunting!

 on: August 18, 2015, 04:45:19 AM 
Started by HunterRequiem - Last post by mr_ted
Thanks for the article, you can learn more about nerf in here http://nerfshootinggames.blogspot.com/

 on: August 17, 2015, 08:01:41 AM 
Started by FrostyFangZX - Last post by Zombona
That looks like a pretty decent loadout, a little on the heavy side maybe. But that's not a bad thing if you are okay with it.

You need to make sure you can still run. Is everything secure enough that it's not going to fall off when you sprint?

 on: August 15, 2015, 02:21:07 PM 
Started by FrostyFangZX - Last post by FrostyFangZX
So recently a friend invited me to a small scale HvZ game,about 50 people and I have no experience with loadouts etc.I just made this one not so long ago,Here goes

Zombie Strike Slingfire,-stock,black breach,primary,with sling
Zombie Strike Flipfury,-stock,secondary,drop leg holster
Elite XD(I know it's just a repaint)Triad,-stock,backup
6 18 Dart Clips/Magazines with elite streamlines
45-50 Loose darts for triad and Flipfury
10 Pairs of socks

That's it,please give me some constructive criticism.Other than what I have above,I have a recon cs-6,Magnus,Retaliator and Hammershot.I keep the loose darts in a pouch attached to my belt and keep the clips in a Holster thingy.Thanks for help in advance.(Note:I haven't modded because the rules of the game only accept stocks blasters)


 on: August 14, 2015, 09:32:02 AM 
Started by Mzzkc - Last post by irishknots

Check out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsj_G2gGxoc

One of the best new mod tutorials for Flywheel blasters. To adapt it for IMRs, just wire it to the stock battery tray.
(My suggestion is to get into LiPo packs sooner, as they are much cheaper per cell than IMRs)

Post Merge: August 14, 2015, 09:42:03 AM
This too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jn5ze5w_Zhc

All flywheel blasters are pretty simple.

 on: August 13, 2015, 10:35:58 PM 
Started by Mzzkc - Last post by Mzzkc
So I just cracked open my shiny new Modulus to do a half-ass, super-lame thermistor twist mod like you can do with the stryfe, but the wiring is quite a bit different from what I was expecting. I kinda sorta want to get my IMRs working reasonably well in this thing, but my knowledge of nerf modifications is relegated to the olden days where we just had to worry about coefficients of friction, plunger seals, reinforcements to handle stupidly powerful springs and the like. The trickiest thing I've ever done with electronics is wiring up an old barricade to activate on trigger pull--and that was using old speaker wire, e-tape, and other lameness.

I'm guessing I'll need a soldering iron for this, and probably some non-speaker wire, but I really have no clue how to begin sourcing this stuff.

I could probably get away with just using 2 IMRs and leaving everything else stock, but I'm guessing that'll do more harm than good in the long-run...

Any advice for an old-timer who has been putting off dealing with this whole circuit and motor thing 'cause fireflys are still great dammit!

 on: August 09, 2015, 03:53:41 AM 
Started by Felixnfawkes - Last post by Felixnfawkes
Sorry. Random repost.

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