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 on: January 28, 2016, 10:12:01 PM 
Started by Mzzkc - Last post by APEX WEAPONS
My primary and sidearm all dialed in. Rapidstrike has full size grip using a Pyragon grip integration. No motor upgrades or real battery packs in the Rapidstrike -- just Efest IMRs. Barrel shroud is from a cheap spring powered airsoft gun. Integrated sling mount (black D-ring near stock in upper shot) Battery pack on the side, can switch between 7.4 and 11.1v depending on the game. Hammershot has the Chinese 7 shot cylinder and Full Metal Hammershot kit from Blasterparts. I'll use the Hammershot mainly to snipe lurkers at a distance - I figure if I am down to my sidearm as a backup I am done anyway. (I subscribe to the same school of thought as Torukmakto in having a primary and no dedicated secondary on a sling - although his sidearm is a more effective Stryfe)

And for fun and novelty here's my Roughcut Tactical Shotgun. Late in the week or on certain missions you can start with this, then when things get hairy or you run out of ammo drop it on a sling and grab the RS.

 on: January 18, 2016, 04:01:56 PM 
Started by shandsgator8 - Last post by shandsgator8

I was wondering if you would respond and I appreciate that you did. Your response was timed great because I just came from a superstock Nerfwar yesterday where engagement distances were about 25 to 45 feet with tons of cover. I used my 6 cell Eneloop custom made battery pack in my modded Stryfe (rewire, MTB Rhinos, and upgraded microswitch). To put it shortly, it performed extremely well. Firing off darts as fast as I could pull the trigger produced only minor reductions in dart speed. Basically, firing the Stryfe as fast as I could provided performance that was close enough to that "first shot" when the flywheels have plenty of time to reach full speed. So as you predicted or alluded to, the Eneloop battery and MTB Rhino combo had enough torque to provide the rapid fire performance I wanted.

As for dart speed, someone had a chrono at the event and I was hitting over 100 FPS (about 100-105 FPS) when the flywheels were fully spun up. I did not do any testing for when I was firing in rapid succession, though. Based on what you said, I bet I was hitting between 80 and 90 FPS when shooting as fast as possible. Note that this testing was done when the battery was below freezing (it was snowing while we played). Playing in the summer time will hopefully produce a tad more power from this setup.

I can see how, based on preference and type of Nerf wars a blaster will be used in, that higher FPS with larger grouping could be advantageous. This is something I will look into and may experiment with at the next superstock Nerf war I attend.

Thanks again for your response!

 on: January 16, 2016, 11:02:26 PM 
Started by shandsgator8 - Last post by torukmakto4
From my online research and limited experience [...] it seems like everyone wants higher FPS darts coming out of their ...blasters. Based on my limited testing and observations, if the dart moves too fast, the darts are inaccurate and have no precision (imagine using old school Nerf streamline darts in a singled Titan). Using the same setup, slower moving darts have higher accuracy and better precision, although generally get less range. Therefore, I have concluded that there is a "sweet spot" between FPS/range and accuracy/precision when using standard Nerf Elite darts of Koosh darts (Gen 3). However, I've never see anyone reference this idea. QED: I'm missing something here.

Does anyone know what I'm missing or can shed some light on my ignorance?

You aren't missing much in terms of stability and velocity for the majority of superstock darts, especially the older and less favored types like Streamline and Elite. All I would consider you to be overlooking, and this does get partially into personal preference and situational factors, is that maximizing precision (minimizing spread) is definitely not equivalent to maximizing combat effectiveness of the superstock blaster system. Targets don't sit still in the open 30 feet away. Trajectory flatness, maximum and effective range, retained velocity, and time on target are considerations that favor the use of the highest legal/safe velocity available. Coming up with an effective solution means balancing those with accuracy issues, similarly to the selection of ammunition to balance aerodynamic efficiency and velocity retention with stability.

Nowadays with the much improved darts in .50 cal (such as koosh, ZS Elite, USD, USC, FVJ, FVN/Hardball, ACC, Kforce, and even standard Hasbro Elite to a large extent) which are much more suited to the 100-130fps band, if you ask me, the accuracy problems are dead and gone, and the best bet is to milk those safety limits for every last joule you can put on darts. Velocity gets hits. What would you rather have, a 70fps stock rampage, or a 120fps RS build? Who can take a quick aimed shot across a 45 foot clearing and hit the enemy as they pass a doorway without tons of unintuitive elevation and lead? If both of these players engage each other simultaneously, who is advantaged? Who can reach a horde at 30 yards for area effect? Who is least likely to have a dispute with a zombie? (But who is best at plinking cans off the fence in the backyard?)

flywheel blasters

This opens a whole other can of worms due to the physics of these beasts. There is a proper document by rhino_aus (the Rhino motor guy) describing what I cover below out there but I forget where.

Those Stryfes and such (i.e. "Nerf-design flywheel systems") you see shooting 100-130fps are operating in dynamic friction. The flywheels turn at a surface speed significantly in excess of the maximum velocity a dart can obtain during its contact with them ("critical velocity" which is first reached at "critical speed", approximately 25,000 rpm for the 1.25" 10mm gap system and a typical dart). This mode of operation i.e. "supercritical" is key to flywheel launchers, in my opinion, being viable in the nerf hobby as anything more than a niche or high-priced product.

The reason behind that is simple: As long as flywheels maintain at least critical speed, velocity and flywheel speed have no relation. Since the dart is always skidding on the flywheel surface, the difference of speed between the two is largely insignificant to the force applied on the dart, and so as you shoot and the motors (which are PMDC with linear torque curves) operate under variable loads and hence vary in speed, the velocity of darts doesn't change in response. Supercritical flywheel guns have a definite capability to support ROF, corresponding to the maximum load under which the motors can maintain critical speed; for instance one can calculate 15rps for the Rhino/3S lipo system and 35rps for the FK180SH-3240/2S lipo system both with Nerf geometry and standard ~1.2g darts. Exceed that, which for these setups is not easy, and velocity starts drooping.

Supercriticality also moves the critical speed far enough down in the torque curve that the torque at that speed is high and the total time to accelerate from rest to that speed is only a small fraction of the time to reach full speed - hence quick response. You need not rev one to full speed to get a 100+ fps shot off.

By contrast, i.e. a stock Nerf flywheel gun operates in static friction mode i.e. rolling contact and hence has a supportable ROF of zero rps and a theoretical full-velocity response time of either infinity or 5 time constants (depending on who you ask) - in other words. equating flywheel speed directly to dart velocity is not good. Well, enough theory. Grab a stock Stryfe and rip on it, watch the darts fall shorter and shorter. That is subcritical operation and it is bad. M'kay?

And what that means? You CAN'T, properly speaking, "turn down" a flywheel blaster's velocity without a major tradeoff to other aspects of performance. And that is part of why they all shoot full velocity - because they can do it consistently, and consistency is practical accuracy.

As a small update, I modified a Stryfe with MTB Rhinos. I tested them with a 6 cell and 8 cell NiMH AA eneloop pack. The 8 cell pack shot the darts noticeably faster, but the darts were MUCH more inaccurate. You could compared the performance of my darts (Gen 4 Koosh) to stock nerf Elites...ok, not that bad, but comparable.

The 6 cell pack shot the darts well, although not as well as fast as the 8 cell pack. However, the darts were MUCH more consistent. My current Stryfe setup uses a 6 cell NiMH pack instead of the 8 cell pack.

The 6 cell is subcritical. The 8 is super. That is the major difference. The 6 should get about 90 fps. The 8, 100-120.

Fortunately, Rhinos and a 6 cell nimh pack will give plenty of torque and since it's a semi-auto and probably doesn't see major ROF you should be able to get away with that. The question is whether it really serves your needs. Can you make it start drooping by shooting as fast as in a game? Can you get a ~80% velocity response shot off from standstill?

I still think you should take the 8 cell into combat, as the 120fps is where it's at. Again, it IS personal preference and situational. Some people (see: BURN and their AR equipped rampages) prefer about 90 fps for better accuracy. I find it lacking reach and hitting power.

Also, does anyone know if the Stryfe and Rapidstrike use the same flywheel motors?


They both accept 20.4mm flat can motors.

They both come stock with FA130 motors.

The stock FA130 motors are not the same motor. The Stryfe motor is the common Nerf semi-auto motor (Demolisher, Rapidred, Cam, Stryfe, E-Ray, blah blah blah). You usually run it on a 3S lipo for superstock. The RS motor is a lower turn (hotter) wind. You usually use 2S for similar speed to the former, and it does make more torque, 3S blows them up, and they don't last but a year with stock metal brushes.

 on: January 12, 2016, 09:26:49 AM 
Started by shandsgator8 - Last post by shandsgator8
HvZ forums are back up!

Thank you for the informative post.

As a small update, I modified a Stryfe with MTB Rhinos. I tested them with a 6 cell and 8 cell NiMH AA eneloop pack. The 8 cell pack shot the darts noticeably faster, but the darts were MUCH more inaccurate. You could compared the performance of my darts (Gen 4 Koosh) to stock nerf Elites...ok, not that bad, but comparable.

The 6 cell pack shot the darts well, although not as well as fast as the 8 cell pack. However, the darts were MUCH more consistent. My current Stryfe setup uses a 6 cell NiMH pack instead of the 8 cell pack.

 on: January 09, 2016, 01:09:59 PM 
Started by TheSilverhead - Last post by TheSilverhead
The Universal Guide to Parkour and Freerunning

So, you want to move. Not just run, but fly. Imagine charging a foe, be it living or undead- they position themselves so a picnic table is between you. Every fiber of their being is expecting you to go left, or right. But you don’t. You go over. They’re dead before their brains (mmm brains) can process what’s happening. People expect things, and their reaction time is based on what they are expecting. So do the unexpected. Vault that table, leap off the wall, roll under shots. This is Parkour. And today, you’re going to learn how to do it.


Parkour (original French parcours) was invented by David Belle as a method of moving through one’s environment with a focus on efficiency and maintaining momentum. Freerunning was later suggested as an English translation of Parkour, although the terms have grown into separate philosophies. If you want to get from Point A to Point B, it’s Parkour. If you want to travel the same route but add a backflip or a pull-through, it’s Freerunning. Practitioners are called Traceurs and Freerunners respectively. /textbook

In my experience, if I call myself a Traceur, I get weird looks. Mostly because people don’t know French.  I will be using all the terminology loosely in this guide, because it really doesn’t matter. Both arts are non-competitive, and no one is going to call you out for using the wrong name. In the same vein, movements have many different names (IE cat/kong, tic-tac/wall run). Again, names don’t matter. Know how to move, not what to call it.

Although there are many moves out there, try not to think of it as a combo or series of pre-defined patterns. Every obstacle is different; every course you run must be handled differently. Sometimes you will slip, your foe will move, your goal will change. The core ideology is getting to where you need to be without letting anything stop you. You do this by learning your own body and how it moves, and using that power to overcome obstacles. I’ll be covering a few movements and how to practice and refine yourself.


Can you run a mile? Impressive, I can’t. It’s too dull. That said, parkour requires a taxing combination of cardiovascular fitness, strength, balance, and coordination. It is also a very high-impact activity. If you have heart or joint problems, talk to a doctor before you start. Even if you don’t, ease into it. Your body will adapt over time, but going to fast will get you hurt- trust me, I’ve done it. Aim to get out and practice for just 15 minutes the first day. If you’re fine the next morning, ramp up to 20. Keep going as long as you’re able and as long as you have free time. The more you practice, the better you get. There are lots of other ways you can improve your ability without directly practicing, of course. I’ve highlighted a few here.

Resistance Training (aka get swole)

It takes a lot of power to be able to pull off some moves. Power is how quickly you can exert your strength, not how strong you are or how big you are. Get into the gym, get a resistance training program, and stick with it. It will also improve your connective tissue, recovery ability, cardiovascular ability, and a host of other factors. You don’t have to be superman or bench 315 to start. Just challenge yourself, however big or small that weight is.

Cardio Training (aka hell)

Yep, you have to run. Though as I mentioned above, it doesn’t have to be in a straight line. If you already run, bike, swim, or something similar and love it, great! Keep it up. Parkour is high-intensity though. You will get your heart pumping after ten minutes of vaulting.

Balance and Coordination

Get a slackline and practice on it. Stand on one leg when you’re still. Walk on lines in the sidewalk, stay on the same line of tiles or the same board inside. Pick a spot 50 feet away, pick a foot, and land your foot on that spot without a short step or a long step right before it. It might sound simple, but it is an important ability. You’ll need to run up to a wall with the right foot spacing to launch- a stutter step or an overextended stride will end your momentum.

Flexibility (aka get bendy!)
Flexibility is another important trait because the longer your range of motion, the higher your power output becomes. Can you squat down ATG (ass to ground), knees in line with toes, without falling over? Check out How To Become Flexible: A Practical Guide (and really the whole blog). I won’t go too into detail, but don’t neglect this skill.

You don’t have to buy parkour shoes or special sweats to practice. However, long pants are a VERY good idea. You’ll knock your shins at some point and be glad of a little extra protection. Personally, I don’t practice in jeans, as they slow me down and restrict movement. Sweatpants or some athletics are fine. Just make sure you won’t trip over them! Oh, and don’t wear flip flops, high heels, dress shoes, etc. Barefoot, running shoes, and skate shoes will all do, though they aren’t ideal. You can pick up a pair of Tigerclaws for ~$20, and they’re arguably the best shoes for Parkour out there.
As for armaments, well, big blasters are risky. The fewer free hands you have, the more limited your moveset. I like being a sock ninja, or a blaster on a lanyard that I can drop at a moment’s notice. Obviously, zombie ninja is a great combo, but I have such an arsenal that I’ll take the risk. Just be sure to practice with your intended gear sometimes.

The Moves

Alright, you’re strong, you can stand on a reed pole for 40 days, run a hundred miles, and you can touch your toes (to your forehead). What happens now?
Well, something inglorious. You learn what to do when you fall. You will fall! Our first move is:

The Shoulder Roll

You jump from a twelve foot ledge. Landing and trying to absorb that shock will kill your knees. You land with a forward tilt, roll over your shoulder and back, one foot striking the ground, and translate the momentum into a running start. The zed behind you stops in awe. Or more likely, you just tripped walking to class and roll instead of face planting into the sidewalk. This is the basis of many other movements, and it will get you comfortable with being upside down. There are numerous tutorials all over Youtube (I’m a fan of Ukemi Parkour’s). Once it thaws out here, I’ll make my own and add it to this section. Same goes for most of these moves- look it up!

Mechanically, a roll is a way to distribute and redirect force. There is the classic gymnastics forward roll (straight over the head and spine) that works just fine on mats and soft surfaces. But don’t try it in the real world- at best, you’ll be bruised. A proper shoulder (PK, parkour, or martial arts) roll goes from one shoulder to the opposite hip, avoiding the tailbone, PSIS, and hip, then end with one foot striking the ground to propel out of the movement.

When is it useful? All the friggin’ time. If you trip, roll. If you jump down from anything higher than your head, roll. If you bail a movement, roll. Be comfortable with rolling over both shoulders. Make sure you aren’t striking any hard points (bones), and get that pattern committed to muscle memory. End the move with one foot ready to run, and your hands pushing you out. Your head should never touch the ground. Start on a mat, bed, rug, or something soft, and then progress to grass, gravel, sand, and eventually solid surfaces. If you’re bruising, you’re doing it wrong. Take it slow and reevaluate your pattern. The roll MUST be learned before anything else.

Remember, you can use it when it isn’t needed. Rolling under a dart or away from a zed can save your life. Plus, it looks kinda cool. I tend to roll at random moments on campus, just to stay in practice.

The Landing

When a ninja drops to the floor, they don’t make a sound. Are you a ninja or a sack of potatoes? For every jump, land on your forefoot (or ball of the foot and toes). Use every joint- toes, ankle, knees, and hips to absorb the impact. Try to see how high you can drop from without making noise. A quiet landing is a safe landing. Additionally, land on two feet whenever possible. Double the joints means half the impact. Keep your knees tracking above your toes (no buckling legs). This keeps cartilage pressure symmetric, so you don't blow a knee out.

The Vault

So, there’s a wall in front of you. It’s about chest high. Some might see a blocked path- I see choices.  There are tons of (named) vaults out there. There isn’t a best, just preference. I love thief’s vault and lazies- you might always kong. The essence of a vault is getting over a relatively low wall, rail, car, etc. in a smooth fashion. For all of these, there are TONS of youtube tutorials if you want to see it done.

V.0 The Takeoff

Vaults require you to jump. You aid that movement with your arms in various ways. Get comfortable jumping straight up, straight forward, and everything in between with both feet, one foot, etc. Practice jumping over small things without touching down- bike racks work well.

V.1 The Lazy Vault

Start slow- plant your hands next to each other, and slightly off to one side of your torso on top of a 2’ wall and jump your feet over it. Try to land facing away from the wall so you can keep running. Congrats, that’s a lazy. Now do it from a small jog, up to full tilt. Oh, and try it with your hands off to each side- you never know how you’ll approach a wall, so you need to be ambidextrous.

V.2 The Thief’s Vault

Just like the lazy, but you only plant one hand. Run up, drop one hand to the surface, and cast your other three limbs over. Only the one hand should touch, everything else flies over the wall. Make sure you can do the move with each hand down. For higher walls, your arms will pull you over. For low walls, they're just a good guide.

V.3 The Kong, or Cat Vault

This one takes some real upper body power for higher walls. Plant your hands wider than shoulder width apart, elbows slightly bent, facing your wall straight on. Now straighten your arms and jump- for now, just try to get your feet on top of the wall and stop there. That’s a Kong-Plant. Once you’re confident, try jumping your feet all the way over without touching. Both hands plant, feet go through the middle of your arms, feet touch down, hands shove off the wall behind you. This is a great move to staying head-on over low obstacles, though depending on your anatomy it can be a difficult one to master.

V.4 The Dive Kong and Double Kong

A bit more advanced! The Dive Kong involves leaping head first towards a wall, or over a small obstacle, then performing a Kong vault from horizontal to get back to your feet. Don’t try this one until you can Kong like a monkey and you’re not afraid to shin-capitate yourself a few times.
The Double Kong is two consecutive Kong Vaults, either to clear two adjacent obstacles or one long one (like a picnic table lengthways). In the first Kong, you kick your feet up and back to get your body horizontal, Kong again, then bring your feet back under for the landing. It’s like clapping the ground twice before you hit it. I’m still working on this move myself.

V.5 Your Vault

Remember, it’s about self-expression. If you find a unique way to get over that wall, call it whatever you want. Get good at it and own it- that’s what the art is about. There are tons of vaults out there. You don’t have to learn and master them all like a checklist. If there’s one go-to that always works for you, great! Use it. Like I said, I always Thief Vault when I can, because it’s adaptable to rails and very high (~5’) walls.

The Jump

Didn’t we just jump a whole bunch? Well, yes. But you were landing on something pretty big- the ground. It’s hard to miss. Generally, you’ll hit it one way or another, unless your name is Arthur Dent. Try jumping to smaller targets! A two-foot jump (feet together on takeoff and landing) is called a Precision Jump. Work on jumping as far as you can on the ground first, to get a feel for it. As you jump, swing your arms up to generate additional drive. If you start tipping over on the landing, bring your arms back down to cancel your momentum. Once you can jump and stick it on a flat surface, try:
    Jumping up steps (1, then 2, 3… 7 is hella impressive!)

    Jumping from table to table, stool to stool, wall to wall. Look around your campus- I’m sure there’s a series of elevated flat things!

    Eventually, jumping on railings on higher obstacles. Be careful- landing on small, curved surfaces is extremely difficult.

A long jump, or jumping off of one foot, is great for clearing small gaps and getting over low things. The trouble is, if that one leading foot doesn’t get traction, well, you’re in for a world of hurt. Only take one-foot jumps where you’re confident. If you slip, roll!

The Taller-than-you-wall

Well, now the wall is 9 feet high. SOL, right? Not quite.

W.1 Basic Wall Climb/Struggle Up

Jump up. Grab the top, pull with your arms and climb with your feet. Bam, you’re over. There are fancier variations (feet together and hopping up, pulling so hard with your arms that you fly over) but this is the basic. Get one foot up, then the other (or swing it over).

W.2 The Leap-over

Climb up as before, but this time, your feet don’t touch the top surface. Think of it as a vault- get your body close to the top of the wall, then jump your feet over and land on the other side (rolling if needed!)

W.3 The taller-than-you-can-jump-and-reach-wall

Here’s where you need environmental serendipity and/or sticky shoes. Both methods are very similar. In the case of a single tall wall, try to run- straight up it. Yep, run up, plant a foot on the wall and attempt to launch yourself high enough to grab the top. Method two, two walls or a corner. Run towards Wall A, plant a foot, and immediately push off of Wall A UP and TOWARDS Wall B. You can gain an extra couple feet of vertical reach this way. Just be careful not to body slam Wall B- upon grabbing the top ledge, you’ll need to get your feet on Wall B to stop from slamming into it. Then proceed over the top as per usual.

W.4 The Cat Hang

Let’s say you have hold of a ledge. It’s a rather nice ledge. You don’t really want to go over it, but along it. You could get on top and then progress, or, you could Cat Hang. This move requires a whole lot of grip strength. Essentially, you’re going to either hand over hand sideways, or make a series of small leaps to the side with both hands until you arrive, drop and roll or proceed over the wall. This works very well with rails, convex corners, and walls with features (brick gaps, small ledges, etc.)

W.5 The Tic-Tac

Screw it, this wall is too high. You’re not going over, and hanging from it is just going to make you a target. You need to turn, FAST, and leave somebody in the dust. You could try to slide or pivot, but both of those waste precious momentum. Instead, find something like a tree, a wall, or something that can take a lot of force without tipping over.  I’ve heard ‘Wall run,’ and ‘tic-tac,’ and prefer tic-tac. It describes the move much better. You’re going to TIC, jump off one foot towards the object, then TAC, use your other foot to plant on the object and jump in a different direction. This can be a very small change (30 degrees total) or dramatic (180!). The sharper the turn, the harder your jumps have to be, and the stronger your joints. But let me tell you, running straight into a wall, tic-tac’ing 180 and blasting the zed behind you is epic.

This move can also be applied to cross gaps. Run nearly parallel, tic at the edge then tac to land on the other side. Great for clearing fountains and walls that protrude from bigger walls. You can add more steps to your horizontal motion (I’ve seen four at best) to extend the gap clearing capacity. This is when ‘Horizontal wall run’ becomes a more suitable descriptor.

Bars, Rails, and other Horizontal Grabby Things

We’ve talked a lot about going over. How about under? If there’s a railing in the way just a bit higher than you’re comfortable vaulting, there are other options.

B.1 The Roll

Oh look, here it is again! Yep, a roll maintains your speed and lower your profile by a lot. As long as you have good form (No flailing limbs) you can shoulder roll under bars, partially open garage doors, and other low clearances a lot faster than you could duck or crawl through. You can also do a side roll, or simply roll around your central vertical axis (think dogs rolling over). Technique isn’t as important, because this is to get from point A to point B, not save your knees from force.

B.2 The Pull Through

Instead of ducking (and slowing down!) lean back. Grab the rail and swing yourself forward and under it. Having your hands on the rail prevents you from whacking your face on the way by, and the swing can win you a little extra speed.

These can get fancier, of course. You can make it an aesthetic move by doing a Gargoyle or skin-the-cat if you’re from a gymnastics background. Grab the bar with both hands. Arms should be slightly bent, legs mostly straight. Now, jump, trying to hit yourself in the face with your knees at the same time you are straightening your arms. The combined motion will send your legs between your arms. You’re essentially doing a backflip while holding on to the bar. Keep holding on until your feet hit the ground- you can let go earlier once you get used to it, but make sure you are landing on your feet. These can also be done backwards by reaching behind yourself, grabbing a bar, and jumping your feet back, up, and through. The starting position for a Back Gargoyle is the ending position for a Front Gargoyle, and vice versa. (A front flip while holding on.) Front and back Gargoyles can be done in an alternating pattern, which is a great way to practice and work on shoulder mobility.

One last fancy-up is the Russian Pull Though. It was invented (as far as I’m aware) by Fight or Flight Academy in Minneapolis, MN. Instead of having two hands on an overhead bar or rail, one hand grabs a vertical bar or is planted against a wall. The Gargoyle is then carried out at a roughly 45 degree angle. These can be a little tricky for leg clearance, so take it slow. You also have to be able to hold your bodyweight with one hand.


Well, that’s enough moves for now. I’ve covered the basics, and hopefully you’ll get into Parkour and start learning and creating movements of your own. You don’t need a gymnastics facility- if you’ve got a flat surface or a couch or a picnic table, you can start. I pick one building on campus and try to get as many moves on it as I can. Once you have individual moves down, work on stringing them together fluently. The ability to transition from obstacle to obstacle is called ‘flow,’ and it’s one of the most vital aspects that make parkour so damn impressive to watch. Start with little elements, like a good approach, a good jump, a good Kong plant. Then put those elements together into a move- a Kong vault at speed. Then start combining movements into routes, or traces. (Traceur, remember?) You’ll be the most survivable human or the deadliest zed in no time.

As a personal tale, I’ve been tagged once in 5 HvZ’s. It was by a football player who had speed like nothing else- I saw him a block away, deemed he wasn’t a threat just yet, and turned to take out the half dozen zeds in front of me. He got to my back before I got three shots off. That’s my ONLY death, though. Last game, at the end of the night, I baited every zed up some stairs to a large concrete porch with a low wall. I then waved cheekily, vaulted the wall, dropped ten feet and bolted to safety. I heard one “Holy ****!” and a friend laugh and call out, “This is the day, we ALMOST infected TheSilverhead.”

I’ve been OZ. Once. I’m not allowed to be OZ any more. I tagged about 20% of the humans in the first ten minutes (250 players). Yeah, people don’t expect ninja zombies.

Questions and comments? I’ll be creating videos for much of this in the spring, but in the meantime, Youtube has a plethora of examples.

 on: December 18, 2015, 11:01:19 AM 
Started by Ghost Reporting - Last post by irishknots
If the echo wasn't already clear, no. This does not break the game.

Coming from one who is always trying to find new fun ways to increase my loadout and now has metagame designed around him - this does not break the game.

This specific blaster only really trumps other blasters in pure ammo consumption. BOOM Nitrons, RS, Vulcans all can get in the same territory of ROF with the 1,3 blasters having similar capacities.

It all really comes down to this.
Look, how many times have we seen the HvZ community react to some upcoming/new quantum advance in equipment with doomsday predictions for the game? Or look back on a recent period of continuous improvement and worry over game balance in the future? It was one hell of a lot of times. Too many to list. Tons of product releases and hobby developments. It has been happening all along the road from 2005 to 2015, during which time the equipment has evolved to something superior to the wildest dreams of the early players, let alone what people were once worried about "killing HvZ".

The metagame of HVZ has evolved over the years has grown and changed with what equipment the players have available. Blasters from the Raider to the Rapidstrike were all thought to kill the game when they first entered the market - they didn't. Zombies have always been able to kill players based not on their equipment but their own ineptitude/inexperience. Every player now has the ability to go out and purchase/build a high ROF rifle, but it becomes useless to them in the game if they aren't familiar with it and its habits.

My mod teams have grown around me and seen what kind of firepower fully modded blasters can pump out, thus they let the game evolve. It is not due to my equipment that I am difficult to nom, it is due to my ~40 games of experience and awareness.

We can also see much of this manifested in the fact that Sock Ninjas are still around in the game. Equipment will never break the game, but rather provide diversity to the playstyles.

 on: December 18, 2015, 10:46:54 AM 
Started by shandsgator8 - Last post by irishknots
You are dealing with two variables there: Dart stability and Flywheel ceiling.

In order for darts to be ballistically stable i.e. fly straight and track, they need to have aerodynamic stability where the center of gravity (mass or where the dart balances due to weight) is at least .5 inches in front of the center of pressure (essentially the middle of the dart). This is basic rocket design and has been used for a long time. Many generic chinese darts, such as the "Koosh" darts sold on ebay, are more stable than elites due to their higher tip mass, and their CG is well ahead of the CP. You can indeed shoot these darts out of any 100+ fps blaster ideally without any issues. As your darts gain velocity, the properties of air become more like a fluid and the more important the stability of the dart is. If  you have fired a Koosh dart (Gen 3) from a high powered springer, you should see that the darts are still much more accurate than almost any other dart, limited experience with FVJs not withstanding.

Flywheels are a different issue all together. If you are seeing darts flying unstable from your blaster, there might be a misalignment in the flywheel cage, front barrel, or magazine well. Do realize that with single stage flywheels, you do have an approximate max velocity of around 120 FPS (Assuming single stage means only 1 set of flywheels + cage). Flywheels also have to be balanced between the top and bottom wheels (Stryfe wheels tend to be the best of the best in terms of straight from the factory balance). Take a look at torukmakto4's blog TheDartZone and read where he discusses how alignment issues easily mess with blaster performance in flywheels.

The stryfe and RS motors are not the same IIRC, I think the RS motors have a higher torque value.

 on: December 13, 2015, 12:25:58 AM 
Started by Charles Ball - Last post by Charles Ball
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 on: December 12, 2015, 05:33:22 PM 
Started by shandsgator8 - Last post by shandsgator8
From my online research and limited experience with flywheel blasters, it seems like everyone wants higher FPS darts coming out of their flywheel blasters. Based on my limited testing and observations, if the dart moves too fast, the darts are inaccurate and have no precision (imagine using old school Nerf streamline darts in a singled Titan). Using the same setup, slower moving darts have higher accuracy and better precision, although generally get less range. Therefore, I have concluded that there is a "sweet spot" between FPS/range and accuracy/precision when using standard Nerf Elite darts of Koosh darts (Gen 3). However, I've never see anyone reference this idea. QED: I'm missing something here.

Does anyone know what I'm missing or can shed some light on my ignorance?

Also, does anyone know if the Stryfe and Rapidstrike use the same flywheel motors?


 on: December 10, 2015, 10:08:40 PM 
Started by darlinggluexi - Last post by darlinggluexi
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