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Author Topic: Show Off Your Armory/Loadout (image heavy)  (Read 568305 times)
Boom


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« Reply #2730 on: May 02, 2012, 08:15:30 PM »

We'll we figured while yes, It will make it easier, It also makes it easier for the darts to slide forward and jam the flywheels when the weapon is not in use. While the probability of this occurring is actually quite low, I myself have experienced this, so you may just want to leave it in.
On a side note, If your having trouble with the trigger pull, I can't remember who it was, but they moved around the internal return spring to make it easier to use. . . . Hmm, where is it . . .
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torukmakto4: What do you mean I can't use it in a thunderdome? It's a Reflex for pete's sake!
Vigilante
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« Reply #2731 on: May 03, 2012, 03:26:02 PM »

Thanks for the quick answer. I hope we can find that mod Tongue

Anyways another Rayven question. If I get the voltage up to around 12.6 V, how long will it last? I'm asking because I plan on using this in a day long HvZ game, and i just wanna know if they'll last all day, or perhaps I should bring backups?
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Camarillo, CA Summer 2011 Last Ten Survivor Group, Medal of Honor Winner, Runner up in MVP Fan Voting
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Alastir


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« Reply #2732 on: May 03, 2012, 03:31:11 PM »

I would think they'd last all day, but I always keep a spare set, just in case I'm wrong.
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Cazzums
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Graveyard Shift

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« Reply #2733 on: May 03, 2012, 04:44:46 PM »

Thanks for the quick answer. I hope we can find that mod Tongue

Anyways another Rayven question. If I get the voltage up to around 12.6 V, how long will it last? I'm asking because I plan on using this in a day long HvZ game, and i just wanna know if they'll last all day, or perhaps I should bring backups?
Last game d4rk354b3r had his volted rayven and it seemed to do very well for a 7hour game. It doesn't die, but the juice goes down a little...at the end of the game it went from 12.3V to around 9V which wasn't bad. It still pwned zombies like any modded rayven should!
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"See you space cowboy..."
Primary: Minimized Demolisher
Backup: Socks/3' Blowgun
Bobololo
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I Will End You

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« Reply #2734 on: May 03, 2012, 08:32:26 PM »

I would think they'd last all day, but I always keep a spare set, just in case I'm wrong.
This
I always carry an extra spare pack of batteries for my stuff. You never know what the elements will throw at you and having your battery fail or run out of juice is not fun, especially when you aren't near a safe zone: true story.
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The YouTube Channel
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skullface1818

The Tallahassee nerf mogul

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« Reply #2735 on: May 04, 2012, 02:34:56 AM »

The yellow components are not resistors, they are chokes/inductors. Unless you are fully rewiring (including replacing your grip switch with a superior upgrade part) there is no reason to lose them. Also, you would need to add wire there if you just deleted them, and doing that without soldering is a liability inside a gun.

for me, I always remove the yellow tabs (bottom left hand corner of the picture) that are attached to the circuit board.

if I don't, then the blaster tends to stop running after about 25 seconds of continuous usage. Im guessing that that has to be the resistor.
am I right in this thought? I realize that we are not talking about the same yellow thingy but I would like to be clear ^---^

Post Merge: May 04, 2012, 02:38:39 AM
This
I always carry an extra spare pack of batteries for my stuff. You never know what the elements will throw at you and having your battery fail or run out of juice is not fun, especially when you aren't near a safe zone: true story.
why I dig the Rayven over the Stampede: the stampede will REALLLLLY kick the bucket at the first sign of trouble (ex: low batteries: it will not fire, bad weather conditions: it will not fire, something gets lose on the inside: it will not fire)
Stampedes just love to not fire.
now Rayvens? they love to fire. even if the batteries are on their last leg, if you've already over volted it, at least they will spin a LITTLE bit
somthing will come out of the front of the blaster.

something > than nothing, in a battery pinch

why I call Rayven > Stampede (at least thats somewhere on my number of reasons why it is a supperior blaster)
« Last Edit: May 04, 2012, 02:38:39 AM by skullface1818 » Logged

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Vigilante
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« Reply #2736 on: May 04, 2012, 03:21:17 AM »

Looks like I'll have to keep extras and a screwdriver close by then.

Does anything know about that trigger mod Boom was talking about?
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Cazzums
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Graveyard Shift

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« Reply #2737 on: May 04, 2012, 03:32:07 AM »

Yes, it is a mod to the trigger in which you remove the stock trigger spring, and instead place a strong return spring from the trigger lever to an epoxied place on the interior of the shell(or around a dart post like mine Tongue)
I love the feel of the trigger after this. No matter which magazine or drum I use, I know 100% that my rayven will not jam from the upcoming dart holding the dart pusher in place. It has a nice resistance to it and instead of an increasing hard pull to the trigger, it is hardest mid retraction of the trigger and a breeze rest of the way through. Best way I could describe this would be like an 'over-the-hill' difficulty to resistance. Let me throw up a pic of my internals...

EDIT: Pics added to show what I mean(sorry for shitty quality, this potato takes terrible pictures)


« Last Edit: May 04, 2012, 04:01:59 AM by SPooKYLuCaZ » Logged

"See you space cowboy..."
Primary: Minimized Demolisher
Backup: Socks/3' Blowgun
Eraser475

Your mom

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« Reply #2738 on: May 05, 2012, 05:27:14 PM »

Added a stock to my Xploderz with a trigger:



Just 2 screws holding a 1/2" PVC endcap on the back of the blaster:

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torukmakto4

Inhuman Resistance

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« Reply #2739 on: May 07, 2012, 12:38:34 PM »

WIP



Had a spare pede receiver sitting around gathering dust, so I decided to use it to do a full chop Krinkov. It will have a fixed, CQ length stock EDIT: using the buttplate from a swarmfire stock using the thinnest, flattest possible buttplate, namely just one sheet of ABS for absolute minimum overall length, and will be self-contained with onboard power. This thing will also be the test mule for 400 motors and MOSFET control, probably with a 3s or 4s lipo of some variety depending on whether I just go everbilt again or decide to drop the velocity a little for some more Streamline stability. NSE PJ planned as well, once I get my hands on a complete/undamaged parts kit to build this with. I do have a donor gun lined up to buy so I will still have a full set of parts to make a whole stock-type pede without chop or integration if I am ever so inclined.
« Last Edit: May 09, 2012, 10:44:05 PM by torukmakto4 » Logged

CT-2406
Quartermaster of the Florida 501st
You are now entering the Dart Zone
Eraser475

Your mom

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« Reply #2740 on: May 07, 2012, 09:02:01 PM »

Added a tactical rail from a busted Reflex slide to my custom Xploderz Xblaster 200:







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darknyght00


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« Reply #2741 on: May 08, 2012, 12:43:35 AM »

WIP

<sexy picture>

...This thing will also be the test mule for 400 motors and MOSFET control...

This is relevant to my interests.
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Primary: Rayven (WIP: Overvolted 12.6v, locks removed, reduced trigger pull, ammo counter)
Primary 2: Stampede (WIP: Overvolted 16.8v, SGNerf SMG reduction, SGNerf upgrade kit, ammo counter)
Primary 3: Alpha Trooper (WIP: OMW Massacre kit- 5kg spring)
torukmakto4

Inhuman Resistance

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« Reply #2742 on: May 08, 2012, 09:40:33 AM »

This is relevant to my interests.

Which part, chopping of 'pedes, MOSFETs, motor swaps or all of the above? My elite vulcan has a fet and a swap already which I posted a while ago. Build on this little thing may be a long way off though, because I need a new battery setup for what I'm planning, plus the fets and the 'pede parts.
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CT-2406
Quartermaster of the Florida 501st
You are now entering the Dart Zone
darknyght00


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« Reply #2743 on: May 09, 2012, 01:26:44 AM »

Chopping should be done to every 'pede that doesn't have a giant integration, I could go either way on motor swaps (not necessary for my purposes). The MOSFET inclusion is the embodiment of about everything I stand for in this game. A wise man once said, "If violence wasn't your last resort, you failed to resort to enough of it." i.e. more dakka.
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Primary: Rayven (WIP: Overvolted 12.6v, locks removed, reduced trigger pull, ammo counter)
Primary 2: Stampede (WIP: Overvolted 16.8v, SGNerf SMG reduction, SGNerf upgrade kit, ammo counter)
Primary 3: Alpha Trooper (WIP: OMW Massacre kit- 5kg spring)
d4rk354b3r


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« Reply #2744 on: May 09, 2012, 01:35:36 AM »

Last game d4rk354b3r had his volted rayven and it seemed to do very well for a 7hour game. It doesn't die, but the juice goes down a little...at the end of the game it went from 12.3V to around 9V which wasn't bad. It still pwned zombies like any modded rayven should!

It was actually around 10V after that game. Still very capable of killing zombies at that point regardless.

Some comparison between TEnergy's 14500s and Ultrafire's 14500s from use at a 4 hour game in separate Rayvens:
Before the game, both types of batteries read ~12v total.
After the game, the TEnergy was still reading 12v but the Ultrafire was reading ~11.3v.
That said, TEnergy's 14500s are a pain in the ass to use: the positive terminals on the batteries are completely flat and in most cases are incapable of contacting the positive terminal of the battery holder.

For anyone else running an overvolted gun, it may be worth the time to pursue a voltmeter mod in the style of the one detailed here: http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=22322.
« Last Edit: May 09, 2012, 01:39:43 AM by d4rk354b3r » Logged

Location:   University of California, Irvine
Primary:   "Shredder" (Modified Rayven)
Primary:   "Rapier" (Modified Rapidstrike)
Sidearm:   Ass-Saver (Elite Stockade)
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