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Author Topic: Mega Centurion Mod Guide  (Read 18564 times)
evands


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« on: September 25, 2013, 06:35:51 PM »

First mod guide, so here goes...

I already have one Centurion waiting for the Blasterparts Mega-to-Streamline mod kit to go up for sale, and I decided I should at least take a crack at modding one while still keeping it firing Mega darts.  Target lowered their price down to $44, and I had a spare gift card, so I picked one up today and broke right into it.

Part 1:  The front barrel

Don't attach the front barrel!  This will make your job WAY easier, especially if you want to make the barrel removable.  Unscrew the whole front barrel assembly and remove these pieces.  They will be on the blaster end of the barrel, one on each side, and have tiny springs attached to them.  These pieces are what mostly keeps the barrel in place.



After you have done this, reassemble the barrel and set it aside.  You're done with modding it for our purposes, unless you plan on doing another mod such as integrating a blaster or changing its appearance or length.

Part 2:  The main blaster

Unscrew everything.  There are a few small screws up at the tac-rail and tip of the gun, two extra-long screws at the front and back, and the rest are all medium sized.  I don't usually use the same screws unless they are special types, like the two extra-long ones that are half threaded, but you can code them to where they go or whatever.

Part 3:  Lock removal (a lot of lock removal)

I started with the trigger lock, which consists of three pieces.  There is a green cap over the catch with a spring and sliding orange triangle on top.  Remove the triangle and spring, because they keep the catch from moving unless the bolt is all the way forward.  There are two more locks located behind the trigger arm, and are removed by unscrewing the trigger arm first, and then sliding the locks off the shell.  The lock in the second photo keeps the boltsled from moving in case the other two locks fail, and the third photo is of the lock that keeps you from pulling the trigger unless the boltsled is all the way forward.





After you're done with the redundant trigger locks, you can move on to the last of the barrel locks and magazine lock.  The barrel locks are located directly in front of the magwell, and are on both sides of the shell.  Remove them and shave down the wedge so that it's angled on both sides, and then screw them back into the blaster.  This will keep the barrel attached while allowing it to be easily removed.  The magazine lock is removed by separating the magwell and sliding it off its metal rest along with the torsion spring.  There is another lock that is flat against the shell above the magwell that I'm not sure of its purpose, but it kept me from de-priming the blaster and it had to go.  No photos of it though, because it was done as an afterthought.




Part 4:  Plunger tube

Remove the plunger tube and bolt assembly, but remember to unscrew the return spring from either the plunger tube or shell.  If you stretch this spring, the bolt won't return all the way.  Looking down the barrel, you will see three screws around the bolt, and you want to remove them.  Pull apart the bolt and plunger tube, and the whole air restrictor assembly will fall out.  Screw it back together.  There are slots cut in the plunger tube that also hinder performance, so you can cover these up with a sort of tape, but don't use a glue filler.  If anything gets inside the plunger tube, you're screwed.  I haven't actually covered the slots, because I don't like the feel of tape rubbing against the inside of the shell.






I haven't found a good way of opening up the plunger tube for a spring replacement or addition yet, because it seems to be glued shut.  The only screws in the tube are the one that connects the bolt to the reverse plunger, and one going in from the front.

Part 5:  Shoot it!!

After modding my Centurion, it's getting noticeably better ranges, although it's still not punching the century mark every time.  Also, accuracy has seemed to improve a little.  If I taped over the slots in the plunger tube, it would probably be getting over 75 feet flat and 100 feet angled every time.  All of the lock removal has also made it a better feeling blaster.  I can de-prime it when I want, and everything moves without that bad crunchy feeling.  With the removable barrel, I have slightly better range and accuracy, and it can also be stowed away much easier.

Hope you all liked the guide, and if you have any questions, please ask!


Logged

Standard Loadout:
Primary - "Banshee" Rapidstrike (Blade 180 motors, adjustable ROF/flywheel power)
Secondary - extra clips and darts

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbZSFws1LMU

Quote from: Ross_Varn
Rabid squirrels are not an approved special weapon on any campuses, keep that in mind.
Sixth Kira

"I'll take this potato chip... and I'll eat it!"

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« Reply #1 on: September 26, 2013, 05:06:29 AM »

A solid guide, although I won't deny that I'm fascinated to see a more comprehensive guide covering spring additions/changes, brass barrels, calibre changes, etc.
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Wearer of the great and mighty longcoat. Worship my coat and all it stands for, gentlemen.

"Sir, how many darts does this blaster fire per second?"

"all of them"
evands


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« Reply #2 on: September 26, 2013, 03:37:36 PM »

If I find a good way to open up the plunger tube without ruining it, I'll definitely post photos and a supplemental guide on how to do it.  I've found that the spring used seems to be the same diameter as a Longshot spring, but with more length and tension.  This leads me to believe that a section of K26 will make a suitable replacement as long as the plunger tube can handle the increased stress without additional supports.  Later tonight, I'll post up more detailed and better photos of the plunger tube to see if anyone has suggestions on opening it up.
Logged

Standard Loadout:
Primary - "Banshee" Rapidstrike (Blade 180 motors, adjustable ROF/flywheel power)
Secondary - extra clips and darts

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbZSFws1LMU

Quote from: Ross_Varn
Rabid squirrels are not an approved special weapon on any campuses, keep that in mind.
Rexar5


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« Reply #3 on: September 26, 2013, 04:03:14 PM »

I think there are a few problems.  First of all, the plunger tube is solvent welded together so it's really difficult to take apart and do spring replacements.  The tube also has those holes in ti and is tapered and so it gets a terrible seal for most of the tube.  Honestly the whole thing needs to be replaced.  I donno what can be done to this thing without an OMW or Xplorer or whatever kit.  It's a shame that 3d printing wouldn't really work for this application.  You really need injection-molding or something. 
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Sixth Kira

"I'll take this potato chip... and I'll eat it!"

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« Reply #4 on: September 27, 2013, 09:32:43 PM »

I reckon that this thing is OMW's wet dream. It's a blaster with an absolutely staggering amount of potential, that just requires a few custom-made parts to render it an incredibly devastating long-range blaster.
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Wearer of the great and mighty longcoat. Worship my coat and all it stands for, gentlemen.

"Sir, how many darts does this blaster fire per second?"

"all of them"
JPRoth1980


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« Reply #5 on: September 30, 2013, 03:28:03 PM »

I reckon that this thing is OMW's wet dream. It's a blaster with an absolutely staggering amount of potential, that just requires a few custom-made parts to render it an incredibly devastating long-range blaster.

From what I have heard, OMW is a little hesitant to release a kit for this due to safety concerns and an belief that the Centurion won't sell.  The only way to get around that resistance, of course, is to let them know.  So do so!
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Sixth Kira

"I'll take this potato chip... and I'll eat it!"

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« Reply #6 on: October 01, 2013, 01:30:36 AM »

Scratch that - Blasterparts.de have already got a kit out and for sale that allows you to convert it for standard darts. Christ, that was quick... looks like OMW might be about to lose a decent chunk of their market share if they don't act fast.
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Wearer of the great and mighty longcoat. Worship my coat and all it stands for, gentlemen.

"Sir, how many darts does this blaster fire per second?"

"all of them"
Ozymandias
* Moderator

I met a survivor from Zombieland...

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« Reply #7 on: October 01, 2013, 01:36:55 AM »

As I mentioned on the Nerf Modders FB page, the German kit is ~54 USD, not including shipping, which is ridiculously expensive as well.
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"My name is Ozymandias, king of kings:
Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!"

Dallas Metroplex, Texas
Sixth Kira

"I'll take this potato chip... and I'll eat it!"

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« Reply #8 on: October 01, 2013, 03:14:54 AM »

About the same Australian, although that said, shit is expensive here in Australia. Up until about six months ago, you'd be hard-pressed to find an Xbox 360 game under $100 (and our currency exchange rate is only a little below the US dollar). So we're kinda used to paying up the nose for everything, Nerf products included (the Stampede costed $120 when it was first released here, the Longshot cost $80, the Retaliator cost $50...).
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Wearer of the great and mighty longcoat. Worship my coat and all it stands for, gentlemen.

"Sir, how many darts does this blaster fire per second?"

"all of them"
Rexar5


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« Reply #9 on: October 01, 2013, 09:45:17 AM »

As I mentioned on the Nerf Modders FB page, the German kit is ~54 USD, not including shipping, which is ridiculously expensive as well.

The kit also does not even address the actual problem: the shitty plunger tube.  A kit has to replace that for me to consider buying it. 
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Sixth Kira

"I'll take this potato chip... and I'll eat it!"

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« Reply #10 on: October 01, 2013, 11:47:16 AM »

The kit also does not even address the actual problem: the shitty plunger tube.  A kit has to replace that for me to consider buying it. 

I was under the sincere impression that this problem could be pretty easily mitigated by just taping up the holes on the plunger tube. Sure, it'll slide a little bit, but it's simple and cheap.
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Wearer of the great and mighty longcoat. Worship my coat and all it stands for, gentlemen.

"Sir, how many darts does this blaster fire per second?"

"all of them"
torukmakto4

Interstellar Caveman

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« Reply #11 on: October 01, 2013, 11:50:51 AM »

I was under the sincere impression that this problem could be pretty easily mitigated by just taping up the holes on the plunger tube. Sure, it'll slide a little bit, but it's simple and cheap.

The ports are slots, and they still vent air around the O-ring if covered up. They would need to be filled, and that is difficult. Furthermore the ID of the cylinder is heavily tapered so the O-ring apparently doesn't seal in that area anyway.

Something I have to add here, is that I don't know WHY you would possibly want to remove the porting if you are using something that amounts to a stock CS bolt to shoot stock elites. With that short barrel, that extra air would become muzzle blast and you would probably LOSE efficiency and accuracy.
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"Are banshees legal in HvZ?"
Quartermaster, Florida 501st
All AC drives all the time from here on. Brushes suck.
My nerf blog
Sixth Kira

"I'll take this potato chip... and I'll eat it!"

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« Reply #12 on: October 01, 2013, 11:57:11 AM »

Furthermore the ID of the cylinder is heavily tapered so the O-ring apparently doesn't seal in that area anyway.

Is there any foreseeable way to fix that problem?

Something I have to add here, is that I don't know WHY you would possibly want to remove the porting if you are using something that amounts to a stock CS bolt to shoot stock elites. With that short barrel, that extra air would become muzzle blast and you would probably LOSE efficiency and accuracy.

You are assuming a stock-length barrel here. When you're dealing with something with that much punch, really, there's nothing to lose from adding on a massive brass or PETG barrel to increase accuracy and reduce muzzle blast. If you're using this thing as a close-combat weapon, you're A) doing it wrong and B) a horrible person.
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Wearer of the great and mighty longcoat. Worship my coat and all it stands for, gentlemen.

"Sir, how many darts does this blaster fire per second?"

"all of them"
evands


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« Reply #13 on: October 01, 2013, 02:16:33 PM »

Scratch that - Blasterparts.de have already got a kit out and for sale that allows you to convert it for standard darts. Christ, that was quick... looks like OMW might be about to lose a decent chunk of their market share if they don't act fast.

I actually ordered that Blaterparts kit this morning, and that was a decent chunk of funds (about $95 after shipping).  Not going to be buying any more Nerf stuff in the next few weeks.

Something I have to add here, is that I don't know WHY you would possibly want to remove the porting if you are using something that amounts to a stock CS bolt to shoot stock elites. With that short barrel, that extra air would become muzzle blast and you would probably LOSE efficiency and accuracy.

I agree wholeheartedly, but I also like Sixth Kira's idea and will be experimenting with a sealed barrel made from PETG, which I have tons of from household projects.  After my kit arrives, I'm going to update this mod guide with the results, and then move on to the front barrel.  I have a second Centurion with a removable barrel, so I can use the spare barrel to have a second try making a sealed breech if the first fails.

I forsee two possible outcomes of the Blasterparts kit along with a sealed breech.  (1) The bolt doesn't actually seal correctly and winds up with 80-100 foot ranges like the Blasterparts range test or (2) It seals correctly and gets shots well above the century mark.
Logged

Standard Loadout:
Primary - "Banshee" Rapidstrike (Blade 180 motors, adjustable ROF/flywheel power)
Secondary - extra clips and darts

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbZSFws1LMU

Quote from: Ross_Varn
Rabid squirrels are not an approved special weapon on any campuses, keep that in mind.
torukmakto4

Interstellar Caveman

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« Reply #14 on: October 01, 2013, 02:48:39 PM »

I forsee two possible outcomes of the Blasterparts kit along with a sealed breech.  (1) The bolt doesn't actually seal correctly and winds up with 80-100 foot ranges like the Blasterparts range test or (2) It seals correctly and gets shots well above the century mark.

It's very hard to get an elite dart to go more than 100 feet flat, since that is approaching its maximum range which is limited by drag.

This is one of the situations where range testing does not measure velocity accurately. Just be aware of that.
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"Are banshees legal in HvZ?"
Quartermaster, Florida 501st
All AC drives all the time from here on. Brushes suck.
My nerf blog
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