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Author Topic: Newb Advice Thread Discussion  (Read 64714 times)
cadens


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« Reply #315 on: August 26, 2013, 03:19:05 PM »

If you're using elite or streamline darts, then your problem is that they're too light - fishtailing is expected with extra power. You could try adding weights to the tips of the darts, but whether that's kosher at your school's HvZ is another matter entirely. As for the jamming, try to rule out crappy darts being an issue. I'm assuming you're fully priming the LS each time - also rule out a crappy magazine being the culprit. Did you modify the bolt in any way? Did you add padding to the plunger head?

------

So, I added a 2.0x OMW spring, punched out all the pegs in the shells, and glued the clutch on my Vulcan - it now successfully cycles through the 75 round chain, but it still skips a significant number of shots (about half, mostly toward the end and middle of the chain). Any ideas?

I suspect that the spring that presses the rotational piece against the hex head of the clutch is not strong enough - any suggestions for a replacement? I don't have a replacement spring on hand, so I'll have to go to Ace hardware to find one.

------

I nested a spring along with the stock one, and tried again on full auto - my Vulcan is skipping even more shots! Ack! I do notice that if I just tap the trigger, it will fire more of the 75 round belt - it seems that the rounds advance more than the front of the plunger returns. I'm a bit stuck here - any help would be appreciated. To be clear, it can fire the normal 25 round belts with no problems whatsoever.

------

I GOT IT TO WORK FLAWLESSY! YESSSSSSS. Seems like my 7.62 ammo tin is not mounted properly, perhaps too high. I will need to work that out. But, it fired the entire 75 round chain perfectly! No skipped shots! Hooray!
« Last Edit: September 04, 2013, 09:54:41 PM by cadens » Logged
torukmakto4

Inhuman Resistance

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« Reply #316 on: September 04, 2013, 11:10:43 PM »

Oh yeah, a little mentioned detail of my ammo can installation...

There is a piece of soda can wrapped in duct tape, formed into a nice round feed guide over the edge of the can and into the feed tray, which has been attached to my can since mid 2010! Somehow I have not created a proper feed guide from steel or PVC or the like yet, and that piece of soda can has continued anti-snagging my ammo flawlessly!

It's similar to the old Vietnam trick of the C-ration can wired to the M60 feed tray to smooth out the feed.
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CT-2406
Quartermaster of the Florida 501st
You are now entering the Dart Zone
cadens


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« Reply #317 on: September 04, 2013, 11:52:41 PM »

I think I will copy that! I shifted the ammo can down slightly, and now it fires with the tin attached to the side! Now, I'm going to put a maverick handle on the bottom and clean up the front, and have myself a Vulcan pistol. Thanks for the help! I will probably post a video if anyone is interested, probably once it's been minimized and probably painted.
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Zim

I'm a Brony, Got a problem with that?

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« Reply #318 on: September 05, 2013, 10:05:54 PM »

I've ruled out all possible answers for my ls, it officially sucks.
---------------------------------------
I feel like a retard for asking...
how do I connect vulcan belts without using the "dud" links?
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torukmakto4

Inhuman Resistance

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« Reply #319 on: September 05, 2013, 10:32:38 PM »

You need Devcon Plastic Welder to do it right. Don't trust anything else.

Carefully remove the cover plate from the last cartridge of the leading belt (there will be some CA or a small solvent weld on that which you need to break, and don't worry too much about breaking the tab off on the side). Notice how the webbing, cartridge case, and cover plate function. Cut the webbing so that when the round is in its original position, the webbing reaches halfway across the casing. Mix up a little Devcon and glue that webbing to the cartridge case.

Also remove the dummy round from the next segment, or otherwise prepare a segment of belt with some leading webbing. Feed that under the crossbar on the other side and cut it, once again, to reach halfway across the case. MAINTAIN PROPER SPACING BETWEEN ROUNDS - COMPARE TO UNMODIFIED BELT. Glue it down.

Now Devcon the cover plate back on, being sure to get some Devcon on the webbing under the plate to lock it in place, in addition to bonding the plate back onto the case. Wipe off adhesive spills and let cure and you have a link more durable than factory ammo.
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CT-2406
Quartermaster of the Florida 501st
You are now entering the Dart Zone
cadens


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« Reply #320 on: September 11, 2013, 10:32:57 PM »

While still on the subject of Devcon Plastic Welder, where the hell can I reliably order it? And do they make a putty version?
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Highlander


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« Reply #321 on: September 29, 2013, 02:25:07 PM »

Hey guys,I'm new here and very newb in HvZ,I never played that before,can you give me some tricks?


What primary,secondary and side gun I choose?

I don't have good NERF guns for HvZ.

Sorry my bad english,I'm not american. =/
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dansitube

When I read a noob's writing

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« Reply #322 on: July 10, 2014, 12:44:10 AM »

If you have them money ( more than one hundred dollars) then i recommend getting a Nerf N-Strike Elite RapidStrike CS-18, a very nice gun for a more experienced nerfer, but a hvz noob, like me.
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Zombona


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« Reply #323 on: July 10, 2014, 07:12:29 AM »

I am a big fan of the Stryfe. For about the price of a rapid strike you can get a semi auto blaster and 2 18rd clips.
It might be better to start out on a Semi Auto blaster first then graduate up to a full auto blaster, then you would still have the spare clips later down the road too.
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I do so love my OJ Stryfe.
Deathwish

RHUL HvZ

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« Reply #324 on: July 11, 2014, 05:40:56 PM »

Hey guys,I'm new here and very newb in HvZ,I never played that before,can you give me some tricks?


What primary,secondary and side gun I choose?

I don't have good NERF guns for HvZ.

Sorry my bad english,I'm not american. =/

The Elite Alpha Trooper (the blue one) seem to run pretty well.
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Primary: Elite Rayven - Bella
Secondary: Sweet Revenge/SideStrike
Darts, darts and even more darts.

Armoury: Sonic Longstrike w/ OMW Polycarb., 5kg Spring, Xplorer Rapid-fire Grip - Sasha
Zombie Role: Scout (Diversion)

Why Deathwish? Not a clue.
Katyusha


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« Reply #325 on: July 12, 2014, 02:10:16 AM »

I am a big fan of the Stryfe. For about the price of a rapid strike you can get a semi auto blaster and 2 18rd clips.
It might be better to start out on a Semi Auto blaster first then graduate up to a full auto blaster, then you would still have the spare clips later down the road too.

The Stryfe is great if you mod it, but stock it's garbage due to the ROF limitation and EXTREMELY poor windup time.  I second Deathwish's recommendation of the EAT, which is perfectly viable even when bone-stock, and therefore much better for a newbie who isn't familiar with modding.  If you have the money and you already own the tools (soldering iron), definitely grab a Stryfe as well and try your hand at modding it, but if not, stick to something that will work well without needing to be messed with.  Also, socks.  Lots and lots and lots of socks.  Socks are your life and you should never be without them.
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"all of them"
Herbert West

Mad scientist

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« Reply #326 on: July 12, 2014, 04:11:44 PM »

Hey guys,I'm new here and very newb in HvZ,I never played that before,can you give me some tricks?

I'll second Deathwish's and Katyusha's recommendation of something manual with slamfire. Whether you go for the EAT or Rampage is largely a mater of preference - someone who knows more about these blasters (I tend to focus on electric ones) might correct me, but I think that both are reliable. (The non-elite versions, on the other hand . . .)

Electric blasters are more of a high-investment high-reward thing.

Here is some advice for if you do decide to modify something:

  • Start small, and expect it to take longer than you expect it to take. You might, for example, buy an EAT and a Stryfe, and use the EAT until your Stryfe is ready.
  • If you decide to go electric, do your homework and choose your batteries wisely.
  • If you don't have a soldering iron and need one, get one which has a stand that allows it to be used while on the stand. The most difficult thing about soldering is that you only have two hands and you will instinctively want to hole the wire, terminal, iron, and spool of solder all at once. I've found it useful to be able to leave the iron on its stand and bring things to it.
« Last Edit: July 12, 2014, 04:13:29 PM by Herbert West » Logged

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Catastrophe
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« Reply #327 on: July 17, 2014, 03:17:04 AM »

I'll second Deathwish's and Katyusha's recommendation of something manual with slamfire. Whether you go for the EAT or Rampage is largely a mater of preference - someone who knows more about these blasters (I tend to focus on electric ones) might correct me, but I think that both are reliable. (The non-elite versions, on the other hand . . .)
I'll stand by the Rampage as the best manual clip-fed blaster out there, while Ross_Varn will swear by the Alpha Trooper (both Elite and the old N-strike versions). Between the two, it comes down to preference between the priming grip (handle vs circle shotgun-esque) and clip orientation (horizontal vs vertical). I'd prefer to have a vertical magwell Rampage, but since Nerf has yet to take the best of both of those blasters and combined them, I'll stick with the Rampage.
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Ross_Varn
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Page of Bluff

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« Reply #328 on: July 17, 2014, 07:59:14 PM »

I'll stand by the Rampage as the best manual clip-fed blaster out there, while Ross_Varn will swear by the Alpha Trooper (both Elite and the old N-strike versions).

You knows me too well.

Both blasters are great mid-level entries, being that you need a few mags and darts to use them effectively, but they're an excellent platform to just tool around with if you don't have an intention to mod right off the bat.

I also like the Hammershot quite a bit, if you're just looking for something to pick up and play with right now. Besides that, socks. Remember, W.W.S.D- What Would Socks Do? The answer, as always, is save your butt. Always carry socks.
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CS- Tiff


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« Reply #329 on: March 16, 2015, 09:40:17 AM »

Ok, this is gonna take a while.

Everything depends on your choice of playstyle, I will outline a few.

Aggressive - Stun as many zombies as possible and finish as many missions as possible

For this playstyle, you want something that has a nice rate of fire, pretty good distance, OK accuracy, and some good FPS (feet per second that the dart travels).

I will highlight a few choices of blasters for this playstyle.

Rapidstrike

This blaster is fully automatic with OK ROF (3.2 ish Darts per second), nice distance, kind of inaccurate, and gets standard elite FPS (60-75 ish). It is clip/magazine compatible, meaning you can fire up to 35 rounds at a time without having to reload. This blaster is a bit pricey, usually selling for $40, I wouldn't say it's worth it, but since it has that full auto capability, give it a shot (no pun intended).

Stryfe

This blaster is semi automatic with OK ROF (however fast you can pull the trigger, however there is an exception which i will get into in a second), nice distance, OK accuracy, and get standard elite FPS although it is a bit more consistent (65-75 ish). The exception I was talking about earlier is that the stryfe has a lock which prevents you from pulling the trigger when a dart is not in the magazine/clip. When using a faulty dart or clip, the dart in the magazine might not push up that lock which might lock up the trigger during gameplay which can lead to bad things. Even a baby can remove this lock. Open the blaster and just take the orange piece out. That is all you need to do to make your stryfe TRULY semi-automatic. For some people, this means that you can shoot faster than a rapidstrike with a stryfe. For those people, you are in luck, as the stryfe usually retails for about $20! That's half the price of the Rapidstrike!

Stockade

Pretty much a stryfe but it has a trigger pull a little bit heftier than a stryfe and comes with a stock that is one of the best stocks for nerfers and it is very comfortable. One thing that may be good or bad is that it doesn't take clips. This will be a very big No No for some of you, but the rotating turret that takes the place of magazines has its upsides. For example, those who have not accumulated many magazines or darts overtime, you can just pick a dart up and shove it in the hole of the turret (giggiteehee). Same price as a stryfe.

Demolisher

Same as stryfe, FPS readings are a bit more consistent (~70 ish) but the dart sensor is removed so your ROF can be substantially higher. It also comes with a missle launcher which has pretty horrible velocity readings and It doesn't seem to be very affective anywhere. Plus, lots of campuses have bans on different types of ammo types such as the demolisher rockets which are a little bit harder on the top (giggiteehee again). The big turnaround is that it costs around $40.

Just my few cents because I don't really have anything else to say now.

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