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Author Topic: Newb Advice Thread Discussion  (Read 96182 times)
torukmakto4

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« Reply #300 on: August 08, 2013, 08:35:22 PM »

The plunger in a vulcan does not stop on the front of the PT. It is restrained by a stop on the subframe near the sector gear. The plunger head is not an impact area, and by design it cannot be an impact area. The PT is free-floating and its axial travel is used to chamber rounds. For correct operation, the plunger must not push on it through a pad or any other means.
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CT-2406
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DarthMeow


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« Reply #301 on: August 08, 2013, 08:47:01 PM »

The plunger in a vulcan does not stop on the front of the PT. It is restrained by a stop on the subframe near the sector gear. The plunger head is not an impact area, and by design it cannot be an impact area. The PT is free-floating and its axial travel is used to chamber rounds. For correct operation, the plunger must not push on it through a pad or any other means.

So its safe to not pad it? Isn't this also the case for the swarmy (and why you do not need the target shaped stop in the front of the PT)?
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Main: Modded Stampede (various Slydev parts, AR removed, stock+elite CS spring, 3S Lipo), Retaliator (Sonic ice, OMW Stage 1 and 2), or Rayven (rewire, 3s Lipo)
torukmakto4

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« Reply #302 on: August 09, 2013, 12:56:26 AM »

So its safe to not pad it? Isn't this also the case for the swarmy (and why you do not need the target shaped stop in the front of the PT)?

Yes and yes.

Padding either of these accomplishes nothing (test it out dry firing) until the pad is thick enough to make contact with the PT and push it forward, which causes a malfunction (while doing little about the impact).
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CT-2406
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cadens


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« Reply #303 on: August 09, 2013, 08:00:33 PM »

I have the Stampede cracked open, and I have questions!

For the motor, just reconnect thicker wire, yes? Do I need to worry about the the circled component on the side of the motor can?

And based on http://forums.humansvszombies.org/index.php/topic,5592.0.html, flip that gear from the stock position to shown and glue, right? After cleaning, of course.

Also, when reassembling, use lithium grease on the gears, and silicone grease on the plunger assembly, or can I just use silicone grease all throughout?


* gearstock.jpg (98.04 KB, 501x487 - viewed 301 times.)

* gearflipped.png (283.21 KB, 500x445 - viewed 316 times.)

* stampedemotorside.jpg (287.94 KB, 900x787 - viewed 321 times.)
« Last Edit: August 09, 2013, 08:14:23 PM by cadens » Logged
torukmakto4

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« Reply #304 on: August 09, 2013, 08:44:09 PM »

* Circled component on motor can is a ceramic capacitor which has no practical effects on anything. You can leave it, but it only takes 5 seconds to cut off.

* Yes, your "flipped" gear assembly is correct.

* Lithium grease is a good plunger system and seal lube, so you can use it there as well. Silicone grease tends to be high viscosity. It works well on high-pressure hard friction situations but is a bit "slow" for the plunger O-ring.
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CT-2406
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Zim

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« Reply #305 on: August 10, 2013, 01:12:56 PM »

Today I opened the sledgefire I bought yesterday. I was able to get it all apart, but the plunger-tube confuses me. When I look down it there is this big, orange piece, sort of like the white one in the swarmfire. I can't get the AR's out any other way, so is it safe to remove the stopper? Any help will be greatly appreciated- ZIM.
                                           
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cadens


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« Reply #306 on: August 10, 2013, 04:56:35 PM »

Unfortunately I don't have a sledgefire, but if you haven't looked here, it may help:
http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=24252

Bear in mind that will make air flow through all barrels all the time - you won't be able to fire one shot and not have the air flow through the two empty spaces.
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Zim

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« Reply #307 on: August 11, 2013, 10:29:58 AM »

Ok, I figured it out, I did drill out the stopper on my sledgefire and it now beats my two hammershots!
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Zim

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« Reply #308 on: August 17, 2013, 09:05:02 AM »

Too many questions...

#1 If I run 9.6v of lithium-ion battery through a Vulcan will I notice a difference in the ROF?
#2 Will said battery work well for a swarmpistol? I'm building it for speed.
#3 If I ran two of the above batteries in my 'pede in series is it sill safe to spam with?
Thanks, ZIM.
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torukmakto4

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« Reply #309 on: August 17, 2013, 09:35:22 AM »

Too many questions...

#1 If I run 9.6v of lithium-ion battery through a Vulcan will I notice a difference in the ROF?
#2 Will said battery work well for a swarmpistol? I'm building it for speed.
#3 If I ran two of the above batteries in my 'pede in series is it sill safe to spam with?
Thanks, ZIM.

9.6v lithium? What is this battery? LiFePO4?

It will bump ROF slightly on vulcan and swarm, definitely not building for speed - you should use 2 in series.

2 in series on pede will run away, use 1.
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CT-2406
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cadens


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« Reply #310 on: August 21, 2013, 06:40:03 PM »

So I rewired the Vulcan, popped in a 22.2v lipo and it fires the normal chain without problems (using the ammo box). It will cycle through my 75 round chain with the catch bag and ammo tin attached but it skips shots. I'm thinking that I should take out the air restrictor at least, and possibly punch out the pegs from the chain - should I glue the slip clutch as well?
« Last Edit: August 21, 2013, 06:51:38 PM by cadens » Logged
Lordmonocrona
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« Reply #311 on: August 23, 2013, 07:43:02 AM »

I would like some advice on how to mod a triad so that it shoots three  at a time, does anyone know how to do that?
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torukmakto4

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« Reply #312 on: August 23, 2013, 08:07:09 AM »

So I rewired the Vulcan, popped in a 22.2v lipo and it fires the normal chain without problems (using the ammo box). It will cycle through my 75 round chain with the catch bag and ammo tin attached but it skips shots. I'm thinking that I should take out the air restrictor at least, and possibly punch out the pegs from the chain - should I glue the slip clutch as well?

All of the above would be a good idea.

I would like some advice on how to mod a triad so that it shoots three  at a time, does anyone know how to do that?

Remove the ARs completely. Follow a typical Triad disassembly guide and drill the access hole in the backplate, then remove all the guts from the valve block rather than just the pegs. Warning, I doubt the wisdom of this because those 3 darts at once are not gonna go very fast. You definitely want a spring swap along with it.
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CT-2406
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cadens


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« Reply #313 on: August 24, 2013, 03:55:45 PM »

So, using a heat gun I was able to undo the glue on the end cap which holds the Vulcan's ratchet piece together. I haven't seen anyone else show a picture of it disassembled, so here we are:



If I'm right, all I need to do is glue these two pieces together and then reassemble, yes?



I can show other views of the pieces if anyone is interested.
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Zim

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« Reply #314 on: August 26, 2013, 01:38:02 PM »

I opened my first longshot over the weekend, put a Big Bad Bow spring in with the stock spring, taped over the hole in the breech, added a catch spring, and, of course, removed the air restrictor. It now fires roughly 90", and its accuracy has dropped to a new all-time low. By this I mean I can no longer hit a man-sized target at 20". It's really getting on my nerves, and I was wondering if there was some magical way to add accuracy without using stefans, or at least more distance. It also jams about every three-to-four shots. Any help will be appreciated- ZIM.
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